I myself am fairly new to the woodworking fabrication business and it has been a steep learning curve. The people I work with know their trade and babble on “carpentry” while I sit there trying to figure it all out.
The first and probably the most unusual idea to come to terms with is the use of imperial and metric, usually in the same sentence! For example: “I need 3 pieces of PSE Softwood, 22mm x 10mm, 4 No @ 6′”.
This to the average person is nothing less than another language. To explain it, PSE is PLANED SQUARE EDGE lumber. Buying lumber this way means you have a square edge to measure, but it’s more expensive. Most of the lumber purchased by manufacturing companies is rough sawn, that is, directly from lumber dealers and cut slightly larger, usually with some bark still attached and the usual defects. Cutting the ends to square the wood is the first stage. Then several passes through a 4-sided planer which reduces the thickness of the wood closer to the required size and removes the bark. It may also be necessary to run the edges through a planer/josher to make them square.
In carpentry it is generally good practice to give the width measurement first, so in the example above, 22mm wide and 10mm deep. This is especially important if the 2 measurements are very similar, since getting it wrong means that what you are doing will not fit correctly. Measure twice, cut once!
4 It is not, of course, how many you want; he is self explanatory.
So 6′ long! We just can’t stop using imperial. Just think, if someone asks you how tall you are, the usual answer is 5’3″ or 6’2″. We don’t say: I’m 1580 or 1860. People just know what you mean.
It’s the same in woodworking: 5mm, 15mm, 1 meter, half an inch, 2 feet, everything is used. Basically, most companies will work with metric or imperial units, so don’t worry. The metric system is more accurate: using millimeters means fewer chances for errors.
When we buy hardwood it is measured in cubic feet and when we order softwood we buy in cubic meters which adds to the fun and games!
WINDOWS
There are several different types of windows and styles; we will focus on 3. The traditional window, the storm-proof window and the sliding sash.
The first two are quite similar in many ways, the main exception being the sash. The leaf is the additional opening or non-opening frame surrounded by the outer frame. In traditional windows there is often a sash even when not open and this gives an overall balance to the look of the window. The opening leaf is flush with the frame. In a storm-proof window, often found in more modern homes or in severe weather areas, the sash frame wraps around the main frame, overlapping it to provide additional protection. Both types of windows will have hinges of some description that will allow the sash to open.
The sliding sash is found on many historic and listed buildings and usually has two sash that can be slid up and down depending on requirements. It has no hinges, but works with weights and ropes to lift and drop the heavy leaves. Modern sash sliding windows use a spring instead of weights, making them easier to use and reducing the size of the frame. There are also “mock” sash windows that look like regular sliders but work on a friction hinge; see my article on sliding sash windows for more information.
The frame is the outer beams comprising of 2 side pieces called legs and a top piece called the head and the bottom section called the sill or sill. The leaf itself is composed of 2 vertical uprights and 2 horizontal rails. Muntins is the name given to the horizontal and vertical divider bars that divide window glass into individual panes or spans.
Most good joinery companies will be happy to show you their work and discuss your requirements. Just remember when choosing, not all windows are created equal, check the wood, frame section sizes, and finish.
DOORS
Not all doors are created equal, many exterior doors are not solid or well made. The standard thickness is around 44mm, so be sure to check what you’re getting for your money.
The basic construction of the door is a frame, consisting of 2 side uprights and a top and bottom rail. There are many variations on the actual composition of the door, but the transoms are the horizontal beams and the mullions are the vertical beams. Infills can be solid panels such as raised and field which are very common and give a central flat panel with sloping edges, or possibly glazed units in a myriad of variants including LED glass, dark and super double glazing. efficient. Door glass must be toughened or laminated to meet building regulations, accept nothing less.
Also check that mortise and tenon joints are used in construction, as many companies try to save money but use inferior joining methods. A properly made, glued, mortise and tenon joint will be stronger than the surrounding wood and should never crumble.
The wood is also important: TEC wood is a laminated wood (meaning it has layers glued together for strength and stability) that is widely used. The choice of wood in the UK should be a hardwood such as Sapele or European Oak. Idigbo and Iroko are also good options. Ask your carpentry company for advice on what is best in each situation. The budget will also play its part, but there are always options.
A rebate is a groove cut into the edge of the wood, for example where doors close together or it can be a cut in a flat panel to take another panel.
I hope this article has been informative and if you need any advice please visit our website or contact us.
gordon